Great Escapes: James River
As it flows from the western border of Virginia to the waters of the Chesapeake Bay, the 340-mile-long James River, site of the 2003 Wal-Mart FLW Tour world championship of bass fishing and outdoor show, carries with it a rich tradition of history, scenic beauty and fantastic fishing. The river flows through the heart of historic Richmond, Va., which is a unique city that truly deserves to be called a great escape.
The upper reaches of the James comprise one of the nation’s premier warmwater stream fisheries and dramatic views of mountain vistas. As the river reaches Richmond, the falls begin. The falls is a seven-mile stretch where the river drops 105 feet in elevation through the heart of the city. White-water enthusiasts consider the falls some of the finest white water on the East Coast and marvel at the fact that it is the only white water that cuts through an urban area.
The river is a unique and diverse fishery with many forms of cover ranging from wood, rock and cypress trees to both emergent and submergent grasses.
A good way to describe the river is to divide it in half with the Benjamin Harrison Bridge serving as the dividing line. In the upper section, most anglers concentrate on numerous feeder creeks. Chippokes, Kittewan and Wards creeks are the largest and provide the best angling opportunities.
From the bridge to the city of Richmond, a much different river awaits. This section is much narrower, with fewer mud flats, and provides excellent main-river fishing. There is little in the way of aquatic vegetation here, but many channel banks are loaded with wood and rock. Numerous rock jetties designed to keep the channel free of debris also form productive cover. These jetties provide a break in the current, which attracts large numbers of shad with hungry bass in tow. Several gravel pits also rest along this stretch of river. These areas fish more like lakes because there is little in the way of current. They are warmer than the river and attract massive numbers of shad during the fall and winter months.
Two tributaries, the Chickahominy and Appomattox rivers, provide added angling opportunities. The “Chick,” as the locals call it, contains every form of cover imaginable, along with feeder creeks too numerous to list. Everything from cypress trees to lily pads and arrowhead to hydrilla can be found in this river.
The Appomattox offers wood and rock cover to spare along with many mud banks lined with arrowhead. This is a treacherous river to fish by boat, however, due to numerous islands and shallow mud flats.
While there are enough fishing opportunities to keep even the most dedicated angler busy for weeks, no “escape” to the James River would be complete without visiting historic Richmond. The city has a unique way of blending small-town charm with big-city amenities, all in the heart of the mid-Atlantic.
The region’s history stretches back five centuries to 1607, after King James I granted a royal charter to the Virginia Company of London to settle colonists in North America. Chartered in 1742, Richmond was the site of Patrick Henry’s famous “give me liberty or give me death” speech at the Virginia Convention, held in historic St. John’s Church.
In 1782 Richmond was incorporated as a city, and the James River Company was formed with George Washington serving as honorary president. Development of the James River and Kanawha Canal, designed by Washington, began, and the cornerstone of the State Capitol, designed by Thomas Jefferson, was laid. Each is located in downtown Richmond, with the renovated Kanawha Canal on the riverfront between Seventh Street and downtown, and the State Capitol Complex nearby at Ninth and Grace Streets. Both are great spots for tourists to visit today.
At the outbreak of the Civil War in 1861, the importance of Richmond’s Tredegar Iron Works was one of the most compelling reasons for making the city the capital of the Confederacy. From this foundry came the 723 tons of armor plating that covered the CSS Virginia – the world’s first ironclad ship used in war – and much of the Rebels’ heavy ordinance. Today the Tredegar Iron Works serves as the main visitor center for the Richmond National Battlefield Park. It includes three floors of exhibits with unique artifacts depicting the effects of war on Richmond. Another attraction to see while in town is the Appomattox Court House, where Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant to end the Civil War.
Another popular stop is Jackson Ward. Encompassing 40 blocks, Jackson Ward was deemed the “Black Wall Street” in the 19th century. It is the birthplace of African-American entrepreneurship and boasts more than 600 significant historic structures. Restaurants like Croaker’s Spot and attractions like the Black History Museum and Cultural Center keep Jackson Ward on the list as one of the Richmond region’s most culturally significant stops.
Superior fishing on a scenic river and one of our nation’s most historically significant cities combine to make a visit to the James River and Richmond, Va., during the 2003 Wal-Mart FLW Tour world championship of bass fishing and outdoor show a terrific great escape.
Local attractions
Richmond has a wealth of local attractions and landmarks that make it one of America’s most historically rich cities. Here are some sites that should not be missed:
Belle Isle
A one-mile trail around the edge of this 54-acre island includes a walk along the Falls of the James and Civil War earthworks. Access to the island comes in the form of a one-of-a-kind pedestrian suspension bridge that starts under the Lee Bridge on Tredegar Street.
Canal Walk
The Canal Walk lies adjacent to the north bank of the James River from Tredegar Iron Works at Fifth Street to 17th Street. Markers along the route note people and events associated with the area’s history. The area offers great opportunities for waterfront strolling, canal boat rides and the occasional outdoor concert.
Capitol Square and Virginia State Capitol
Located at Ninth and Grace streets, the Virginia State Capitol is the first public building of neoclassical style in the United States designed by Thomas Jefferson. It is where Virginia’s General Assembly meets. Capitol Square features several monuments, including a life-sized statue of George Washington – the only one in existence for which he actually posed.
Executive Mansion
This is America’s oldest continuously occupied governor’s residence. The National Historic Landmark displays silver, china, carpets and furnishings donated by the citizens of Virginia.
Farmers’ Market
Located at 17th and Main streets, this marketplace is said to be one of the oldest such places in the country. Colonial use dates to the 1740s, when the area was designated for fairs. In 1779, the site officially became a market and has continued as such ever since.
St. John’s Episcopal Church
Located at 2401 E. Broad St., this church is one of the oldest wooden buildings standing in Virginia and is the oldest church in Richmond. It is the site of Patrick Henry’s “give me liberty or give me death” speech. Call (804) 648-5015 for dates and times of re-enactments of the famous speech.
Great places to eat
Barlowe’s Terrace:
100 S. 12th St.
Located in the James Center, this airy American cafe draws hotel guests from the adjacent Omni as well as many other tourists. The emphasis here is on seafood dishes with a daily lunch buffet.
The Corner Cafe:
800 N. Cleveland St.
Located in Richmond’s Museum District, the cafe offers a cozy dining setting featuring a slightly eclectic menu with entrees like spicy pasta, chicken, seafood and microbrews.
Grafiti Grille:
403B N. Ridge Rd.
This West End restaurant located in the Tuckahoe Shopping Center has an American menu filled with the freshest ingredients. The innovative menu changes every five weeks and is accompanied by daily specials and an extensive wine list.
Sunday’s:
4602 Millridge Parkway,
Midlothian, Va.
This family-owned restaurant offers outdoor, waterfront dining along with fresh seafood, steaks, pastas and salads. All desserts are homemade, and the sunset views are breathtaking.
The Tobacco Company:
1201 E. Cary St.
Located on the corner of 12th and Cary Streets in downtown Richmond, this restaurant is considered by most to be the cornerstone of the historic Shockoe Slip District. It is a four-story dining and entertainment palace. The first-floor atrium and Victorian Lounge host live entertainment nightly.